Arctic Swell – Surfing the Ends of the Earth

Aww, hands are so cold!
Cold out there? [laugh] It’s freezing! But absolutely pumping
when the right one comes in. It’s flawless with the offshore waves – offshore snow, I
should say. Some of these places I go, they feel like
a photographic purgatory. It just feels foreign. It’s like, you know, walking on the moon or
something like that. You know, when people think of surfing, the
last thing people consider is, you know, surfing in the Arctic. The contrast of going to these
harsh remote environments, and having surfing be your means of exploration thats, it doesn’t
get any better than that. I feel almost driven to document the Arctic, and in a lot of ways,
Arctic Surfing. Photography for me was a release. I wanted
to immerse myself in the beauty of what I was seeing with my own eyes. And I felt like
it became this kind of symbiotic relationship that really was the perfect medium of expression
for me. As soon as I got a camera I realized this could be my vehicle to go experience
the world. I love to travel. You know like I’m a I’m a cold water fanatic; that’s why
I go to these cold harsh environments. The clouds. The moodiness. The Northern Lights.
It truly is beautiful and epic and the surreal landscapes that come out of this North Atlantic
Sea has really drawn me in. This morning we had to shovel out the car
for about an hour before we could even get out of the driveway. And we had about five
to six feet of like snow drift last night. It’s just packed beyond belief. Being from Southern California, it’s the complete
opposite of what I’m used to. It’s just a different kind of beauty. It’s
real raw and just getting to see this side of God’s creation is super rad. It truly is beautiful and epic and mystical
all while being some of the most harsh conditions I’ve ever seen. I have such a respect for the guys that get
out there in the water. They really have the tough end of the deal. I kind of feel like I’m going to war or something,
like I got my combat suit on. You know you’re putting on five to seven millimeters
of rubber. And then you’re hopping in water that’s thirty-five to forty-five, forty-six
degrees. It doesn’t really get much better for travelling
to cold destinations. Surfing between these giant cliffs and good waves. It’s the raddest
thing ever. When you’re first paddling out it’s kind of
a shock, and then within two minutes you start to feel your core temp drop. And then you make one little turn the wrong
way and your wet suit gets flooded and it feels electrifying. The ocean for years has been considered by
a lot of the locals in these places as such a dangerous scary place and you see, you know,
these professionals working in such an amazing way. Riding the storm surf with crazy undertows
and huge currents and winds from some of the roughest seas in the the world. But it all kind of comes together in this
beautiful way when, when those storms do subside and there’s these glimpses in between these
harsh moments where you get perfection. It humbles you and makes you realize how at
the mercy of the ocean and the elements we are. I know the surfers are out in the water suffering
just as much as I am, if not way more, so I feel like you have this extremely heavy
task on your shoulders of making sure that you document what’s going on accurately and
appropriately and doing them justice, because you’re only going to get so many moments. Today is looking like a perfect day to get
in the water so I’m going to jump in and see what I get. It’s just a matter of trying to
get everything warm before you go in. You know when you want to get these images,
when you want to get these moments, you have to be out in the elements really experiencing
it. And for me you know like I, I love to suffer. The idea of having cold fingers and
you know brittle skin and chapped lips and you know really putting yourself out there
in the elements. I guess that’s when you feel like you’re really paying the price, but the
greatest rewards come. Real deal right now, Dude. this stuff’s so
slick. I can’t see! [singing] I think the surf community is a passionate
bunch. I mean it’s just such a beautiful way to interact and to share experience with people.
And I think that that experience is what draws you all closer. It makes you feel like you’re
part of a group. We all want to see what’s out there you know.
We all want to push past that next headline and see if there’s a better wave on the other
side. And I think that that experience is what draws you all closer. That community,
I feel like that’s, it’s like family. I think as photographers our goal, or at least
my goal, is always to inspire people and if you’re not sharing your work then what are
you doing – I just want to stoke people passions for adventure, and getting out there. And
I want people to drift away when they look at my images you know, I want them to feel
like it’s taken them so far from where they are at that moment that they’re immersed in
the feeling. I think that the adventure that comes from
going to these places where – you know you could easily go there and never get a rideable
wave but what you do get when you get that? It’s like the reward of you know, bagging
a new summit or like climbing the top of like some unnamed peak. It’s just, I don’t know,
there’s a surreal victory that comes from that. And I feel like those are the ones that mean
the most to me. Maybe not even the most beautiful images, but the ones where you come back and
you’re like, wow, I really gave something of myself to get that shot. I think that that’s the beauty of going to
those places; is learning new things about yourself every time you take a photograph.

100 thoughts on “Arctic Swell – Surfing the Ends of the Earth”

  1. this was so beautiful. he is so passionate about his work, and what he said over there about photography when he was like it doesn't have to be the perfect shot, it just has to make you feel like you've actually given away something, like a piece of you to get that shot.' That's true. And this is so beautiful. Absolutely stunning job by the surfers, i cant even IMAGINE what it takes to go out there, water at like 40 degrees and just so that but it's so so beautiful. Captivating. This was captivating. Thank you for this. X.

  2. Au moins, t pénard dans tes vagues….personne pour venir te faire chier sur ta vague à part les pingouins….

  3. What the heck? It is freezing with global warming? I watched the news and guessed you would still need a decent wetsuit but freezing. HHMMMM I know that I could not see the local mountains before smog laws on cars etc.. but that changed. How do we rapidly change into causing global warming? I suspect the government military controlled HAARP messing with the ionosphere that protects us. The reason hair spray was so bad. I know the difference between a contrail and a chemtrail well too. Have spent time legally supporting our wildlife protectors the DFG on opening day bird hunting staring up. I saw chemtrail after chemtrail across the sky turning the sky into haze making it overcast !!!

  4. Lofoten Norway really is breath taking. Had the opportunity of camping there 2 weeks and still my favourite place I have been to date. Reine is stunning and I do believe some is filmed on Kvlavika Beach which is a very remote and isolated area with some of the gnarliest waves on Earth!

  5. What is underneath / in between the rocks your are surfing over? It can't be sand can it? Ice maybe?

  6. These bays & little stub rock out- croppings are apparently in Norway. Off the beaten track for most. I had no idea people ( motivated people) were doung this. Very humbling.

  7. Beautiful video. My family lives on the sea only 275 miles north of Lofoten, where this was filmed. Never thought to surf there but after watching this? Definitely not going to surf there. Awesome!

  8. Thank you so much for enduring the pain and the cold to deliver some of the most epic most beautiful images intertwined with amazing surfing that I've ever seen. Thank you

  9. Unless there is a man made inlet drawing in water or an active sinkhole occurring there is no such thing as an undertow.

  10. I'm at 2:30 and there has yet to be ANY surfing! Lotsa beautiful scenery and walking across a difficult, boulder strewn beach, but no surfing!" Why do the editors of these "surf" vids, insist on 5 minutes of travel and geographic scenes in a 7 minute video? Done!

  11. Good way to get hypothermia this is a insanely dangerous version of the sport which unfourtunately will cause many deaths

  12. Could have said where it was, especially if you truly want to inspire people to travel…he should come to New Jersey, it gets just as cold and snowy every winter…

  13. Hello,
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  14. this is sick, but i'm sorry i don't like this photographer's approach. it's not about you dude, it's about your subjects. why are you narrating your own life-story lol

  15. fuckin love it. remember my 8hours kitesurfing session on the Irish West Coast in January. You in the water and there is the snow

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