FLOW STATE | Russell Bierke

– [Narrator] Time is a social institution and not a physical reality. There is in other words,
no such thing as time in the natural world. You can make significant
plans for the future, if, and only if, you are alive today. – [Brett] What was your strategy there Because I remember you
were probably 10 meters in and almost 10 meters
across from everyone else? – [Russ] I remember that
one, kind of just came in like super doubled up. Like I chased it in from the
start and it still just like kept holding me up and even
though I was real far in, compared to the pack, if I was
another couple of meters in, I reckon it would have helped a lot. – [Brett] And so you backed yourself, thought you could make it? – [Russ] Yeah, I tried to stick
the air drop and it’s like as I was falling, it’s like
the bottom kept dropping out and getting further away. (both laugh) – [Brett] You had flotation on did ya? – [Russ] Yeah, I had a
little impact vest on. I’m glad I didn’t blow it
and hurt myself on that one, because I definitely, getting the wave my life that arvo. – [Brett] Yeah, nice. Bloody oath he did. (passenger laughs) – [Brett] Can I open this a little bit? (drowned out by passenger) – [Passenger] Just open the window. – [Brett] Do you reckon you see things a bit slower than others? I just wonder what goes through that head from that 10 seconds of when it comes, to when you’re in and how you
make it look so effortless. – [Russ] When you like looking
at a wave and lock into it, for me it is kind of like
it is moving in slow motion. If I’m feeling good and in the
zone, it’s almost like every step and movement is subconscious. This a campaign, four
three and an impact suit. (bystander drowned out by audio) – Yeah, yeah, yeah, for sure. (surfer coughs) – [Russ] You sound good mullet – [Sean] Yeh, I went to splendor. – [Russ] Ready for a flogging? – [Brett] Are we allowed
to drop (beep) the name or what are we doing here? (passengers talk over one another) I want to, can we say (beep), na, we can’t cut it out hey? I mean I’ve been out there probably what 30 times in my life still. For people who haven’t surfed,
they wouldn’t understand it, it’s like next level isn’t it? How did you get into that
frame where you went and did it and then how did you learn
to pick the right one and sit in the right spot,
and just work that place out? – [Russ] Even after traveling
everywhere around the world, it’s still one of the hardest
waves I’ve found to line up and read and predict
what’s going to happen. Back in the day I was
just so hungry for it, especially when I was younger,
I would just kind of go out there every time and it
took a fair few beatings to work it out. I guess always trying
to figure out a pattern to the ocean, which the
ocean always has patterns but it can be pretty
hard to work them out. – [Brett] Even just the angle
of like such a steep drop on quite a long board, that’s
a mental block in itself. How do you find big,
steeper drops on big crafts? – I think a lot of it
growing up with my Dad always taking me to the
bigger bombies around here and always riding bigger boards
whenever the surf got bigger that’s his school of thought,
especially from Hawaii. Learning to surf I was just
kind of comfortable riding the bigger board from the get go maybe. – [Brett] What is your headspace? What’s going in there, were you like tortured as a young fellow? (both laugh) – [Russ] I don’t know I
guess I kind of just like enjoy the rush. It’s just kind of that
excitement you get in the moment and yeah it’s probably a bit addictive, that adrenaline rush. I love going out and surfin’
small fun waves as well but it’s just kind of a
different feeling and rush that you don’t really get anywhere else. – [Brett] How long can you do this shit, well I’ll just classify it
as shit, but how long can you maintain that standard
of risk sort of thing? – [Russ] It is a weird
question to ask myself, like “How long can you keep doing it for?” I like to think I’m getting
a bit more calculated the last few years (laughs). – [Brett] Let’s hope so. – [Russ] I guess as long
as you kind of still have that excitement and want to chase it. If I’m finding I’m not
really enjoying myself I think I’ll tap out for sure.

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