Midnight strike mission to Miami! We are
chasing a huge swell down there!! So stoked to get down, I’m riding with Dave and we’re
driving all night. I just got off work we are doing it!! that swell had some of the craziest
waves that I have ever seen in my life. Mountains through this aquamarine
perfect water. Even though I had to be in a wetsuit and a jacket top at times, the
weather felt amazing. It was really frustrating though, it was a tricky swell.
You had to throw yourself off the lip if you had any hopes of trying to make it
through. There were a few waves that I dropped in on, that I probably could have
gotten the barrel of my life…but I kind of just exited out of the wave because I
was afraid of these 10-12 foot monsters that frankly, I’m just not used to. I can
make all the excuses in the world about not riding shortboards very often..being in a new place, riding a new board…but it’s shown me the areas I need to improve on.
Compressing more on my drop-ins. I’m straightening out when I get to the
bottom of the wave. Breathing… I need to stretch more, because my ankle
flexibility is not that great. Shout out to Dave! That was an awesome time being
out there. I had the time of my life. if you enjoyed this video, please press
the like and subscribe button!!! Share this with your friends, it really helps me out
getting this channel off the ground. Thank you guys for watching, I’m glad that you’re
enjoying it and I’ll see you next Thursday!!!!!