Grandpa Surf – Kevin Cavey | Grandfather of Surfing in Ireland

we are dealing with kinetic energy that we go out in the waves we are transferring the energy through the wave actually goes into us and it’s a 50/50 and and we are experiencing nature at its greatest I read in The Reader’s Digest magazine about surfing in Hawaii and I saw a picture of fellow surfing a wave that was shoulder high and I thought oh my goodness you don’t need a 20-foot wave to ride it you can write it on a small wave so therefore we could do it in Ireland that’s what got me going yeah I started on wooden planks in the ring around about 62 and in 64 I built my own first wooden board and put floatation underneath it and that’s when I started surfing properly standing up I worked in a hotel with my father so very often I’d surf in the afternoon and then come back in at night to the hotel but when I came back in one day there was people from the town council and they said hey we hear you’re trying to water-ski on Bray Beach I said no actually it’s surfing and they all laughed and these were important people so I felt pretty pretty bad I felt like I wasn’t a good hotel here and I wasn’t a good surfer so yeah a lot of people said no hope for surfing in Ireland surfing took me a little bit away from reality perhaps studies and very hard work but on the good side I think it’s keep kept me fit over the years and that has helped particularly as I’m 71 now and I’m glad to have something like surfing to rely on I found that a removed stress particularly from work and caring areas and by virtue of the fact I didn’t live to near good surfing beaches as a result of that I didn’t do too much surfing I had a balanced life so surfing contributed you know a quarter of what I did was surfing and about other people who don’t surf and don’t do sport and I’d say will be tied to them because it’s a habit for me doing nothing is a habit for me also surfing is habit forming and I’m glad I got this habit there’s other habits I want to get rid of but not this one I would think I would keep surfing really always because I already do a little bit less than I used to do and it takes me a little bit longer to to rest afterwards so I think that would be a slow process as I get older I’ll just do a little bit less and be more careful but I should be able to you know surf right from here into the hearse

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