Hawaii Rooted: Healing Through Surfing


I look down the line at this probably
a football field size, maybe like a hundred yards of a wall of water in front of me, and
thought, “Oh, my God. This is when I’m gonna die.” Well, I feel a really deep connection
with Maui. Three generations here, my grandfather,
my dad, and now, me. Way back, my dad took me body surfing
at Makena beach. A lot of guys around me were like,
“Whoa, who’s this little girl?” Because I was like one of the only
girls in the lineup. I was like, “I can be out here
with these guys,” you know? A lot of people think, “Oh, it’s
just a surf camp,” but it’s so much more than a surf camp. Instructor: Okay, so you’re paddling to your
wave. You’re paddling, you’re paddling,
you’re paddling. All right, here comes the wave. It drives you forward, push up. And big step forward. I have so much empathy and compassion
for teen girls going through, especially divorce or depression. The girls that come to the camp
realize that they have an inner warrior in them and it teaches so much about self-reliance. Them never giving up. Surfing Jaws felt symbolic like
I was conquering my depression and my fear out there and I really, truly, felt free and
powerful. One, two, three, NALU! Surfing will teach you about resilience,
that’s for sure. We create a safe place for girls
and women to thrive and really be who they are. The ocean doesn’t judge and that’s
a pretty powerful thing when you’re out there. Connecting with girls, it’s the
most beautiful thing to be able to share that surfing saved my life and it can save their
life, too.

4 thoughts on “Hawaii Rooted: Healing Through Surfing”

  1. Just beautiful. To imagine that I just heard about the Maui Surfer Girls' Women's Surf Camp yesterday, and here I am watching this video not even 12 hours after. Amazing. I wish they had a camp in February, when I'll be there, it looks like so much fun… and more. But now, I guess I have something else to look forward to, for next time : ). Thank you for this video, for all of them, in fact.

  2. Hey Hawaii! Your video looks perfect for our video of the month contest on Campfire. We would love to see you upload it to http://campfire.outsidetv.com/home to have the opportunity to win a surfboard, wetsuit, and some free publicity! See you on the site!

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