Hawaii Rooted: Surfing Like Ancients

When I look at my entire life,
it’s just nothing but a storm. The storm rages around me. Within that eye, it’s calm for
me, I see clearly. As a kid I so wanted a surfboard. Brand new, shiny, fiberglass surfboard. My dad just got a piece of wood,
started carving it in a traditional way. I just looked at the board and
told my dad I hated it. I didn’t want it. He just took the board, broke it,
threw it in a fire pit and burn it. One night I go to sleep and I started
to have dreams and I remember the board. That was a beginning of my journey. A search for that essence of what
surfing really is all about traditionally. Every wood speaks to you and talks
to you and it tells you a type of board it’s gonna become, their kinolau, their body form. And I want to restore their spirit
and give it its life that it wants. Ocean is home and land is where
I come to rest. And when we stand up and ride a
board, it’s actually to allow us to be spiritually connected to the ocean itself.

12 thoughts on “Hawaii Rooted: Surfing Like Ancients”

  1. This video stirred something up in my soul and in my blood, words cannot describe it's beauty. Thank you for this wonderful gift.

  2. I don't understand why there are so many dislikes. This is awesome, actually carving your own board out of solid wood. That is amazing. This guy is the real deal.

  3. As I watched with curiosity, i was instantly moved by the spiritual connection this man had with the earth and the sea….the sanctity of the forest, its trees, and the wood that would ultimately become one with the ocean and its waves. It was deeply moving.

  4. What is very sad about this kind of spirituality is that it rejects the Creator God and worships the creation. This is not new. In the ancient world most people feared and bowed down to the storm, the mountains, the rivers, the trees, the birds, the fish, the beasts, the sun, moon and stars.
    That is why Genesis chapter one was written under the inspiration of the Creator, to clearly teach that all these things are not gods, but the creation of One God. That story of creation is a declaration against the worship of nature, but today we do not know that. We are told that it is some kind of primitive and inaccurate science which we should reject.
    But the true message of Genesis chapter one is that there is One great and wonderful God who made all of the natural world, and all the beasts and trees and birds, and stars, etc, are under our dominion. He made human beings to benevolently rule over the creation he made, to tend the earth and care for it.
    The tree does not have eyes or ears. It cannot see or hear. The man who bows down to the tree becomes spiritually blind and deaf like the tree he is praying to. This is a fact. The messages of the world today are introducing these beliefs of nature worship again into movies like Moana for our children, and in many other romanticized ways such as this video. But everyone should know that this is a cruel lie.
    The ancient people resorted to child sacrifice to appease their so called gods of nature. They feared the volcano and the earthquake gods, the storm gods, and offered their children on altars to the demons who pose as nature gods. There is no security or certainty in praying to animals or plants. They will not answer. Only demons will answer, and laugh at you.
    If you feel attracted to the worship of nature, I recommend that you turn to Jesus, who resides in heaven, and who is the mediator between God and Mankind. His gifts are wonderful. His love is unspeakable.

  5. This piece is not about religion, it is about my father, mother, people and where we come from who we are as a living thriving culture. The ocean is home to us. We may disagree and that is the beauty of peoples, cultures, and traditions – we can still share the aloha spirit.

  6. "Ocean is home, and land is where I come to rest"
    This is the Hawaii I want to know more about. Thank you for sharing this!

  7. these series of videos and storytelling is just amazing! so well made! plz make more. its incredible

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