It’s always hard to get on an airplane, buy the ticket to leave your home, where you’re comfortable, where you’re safe, and to go on an unpredictable adventure with many variables and with a lot of history. I had a lot of nightmares and flash backs by the time that episode happened. 5 waves hit me on the head at the shallowest point in the sea, due to a thing like that and really it wasn’t even the wave I caught. I was simply in the wrong place at the wrong time. She tried to get out of the wave in the first situation, but she couldn’t because there were too many people in front. She surfed the wave until the end, until after the place where everyone is sitting on the channel, that crowd, you know? She was sucked in and thrown out in the reef, and sucked in and thrown out in the reef, I could not rescue her. Burle also failed, and Poto made it, but she was already passed out, so you could see her passed out in the sled and that whole situation. Big wave surfing leaves no room, you have to be there, body and soul, with all you have, prepared for anything and in order to run any risk, standing in the middle of the road it is the dangerous thing. Soon after the accident, Apnea training is what helped me. In the past years I have been going to Mexico a lot, where there are tubular waves, which helps me a lot building my technique for Teahupoo. Go, go, go.