Sunday Surf Check Down South – Vlog 1


Whoo, it’s cold…….it’s COLD! Morning everyone; It’s Sunday Morning, It’s a bit after 05:30am and it’s very misty out here this morning – a bit chilly too There has been a bit of swell running lately & Monday & Tuesday was firing……FIRING! Should take about 20 minutes to get there so I’ll see what we get there It’s about three to four-foot but pretty much just closing out There were guys out & there’s a few waves It would have been hard to know where to sit so I’m heading south But I it’s One of those things I you know, I could spend the next 40 minutes looking for waves. I should have just I I should have just gone out to “Censored” But anyway, I’m going to head south & check out one of my favorite breaks Oh Man, check out this guy! Hey Mate! Good Man, well done Okay, peace Mate. So today’s the first day I tested this board it was an error in the cutting and It was just a was supposed to be a plague model, which is quite a flat flat rockered board quite wide and quite thick totally stuffed up cutting so I just reshape this from scratch redid the outline the template and change the rocker The plague has actually got a Vee Bottom And wanted this to have a concave. So I just I reshaped everything but then when I looked at it It was just way too flat through the back end here So I ended up having to put a Vee back into it Really looked like a pretty funky board and I wasn’t sure to do it. I was actually just going to snap it But I decided to glass it anyway and Because it’s a bit of a Frankenstein board, I just called it a Fuk Stick and It actually went really well like really really well, so I I don’t know if you can see it So it was fast it was responsive Beautiful turns…. the tails very thin so it had a lot of bite So sometimes your fuck-ups can actually be good. I won’t turn this into a model, but it’s fun just to experiment with something different

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