Wave of the Winter Movie (2019)

(crow chattering) – Aloha! (crowd cheers) Oh, brah! Giving us chicken skin all
night long watchin’ these guys. Everybody, let’s give
a big round of applause to O’Neill and Surfline,
putting together this year’s Wave of the Winter. Nine years in the running,
this is year number nine. (instrumental music) – Every single kind of wave
that can come in at Pipe has been ridden, and ridden
well at some point thus far. – It seems like there’s
another crazy wave every week. – It was overwhelming. (laughs) – This was a gnarly year. – This is Pipeline. (exciting indie music) – In my opinion, I think it’s
one of the best years ever. Winning the shootout was
the most amazing thing that’s ever happened to me in my life. I’ve never, ever seen a Pipe wave do what that wave just did. – Mind-bending just to watch
that many perfect barrels. There’s just so many, I
would hate to be the judge. – Was that the best wave I’ve
ever seen ridden at Pipeline? Maybe. – I look at that and I go,
that’s the Wave of the Winter. And there’s an exclamation
point behind it. – You couldn’t get a better
judging panel, honestly. With Shawn Briley, who I think
was caught in the best wave ever caught at Pipeline. Pancho Sullivan, who’s won
so many events out there. Shane Dorian, can’t say enough
good things about that guy. And then you got Gerry Lopez, you know, Mr. Pipeline himself. – Those are some of the
most amazing Pipe surfers, and surfers, in the world,
that the world’s ever seen. – It’s such an honor to
leave it up to those guys to decide who rode the
best wave of the winter. – You really have to
impress them, you know? They’ve seen it all. – Well the Wave of the Winter
has always been a thing, even before the official
Wave of the Winter. Everybody would always
talk about who got the best wave of the winter so far. And there was always someone
at the end of the year, it was like, really stood out, they got the best wave
of the whole winter. – You know, for me, the Wave of the Winter in a large part is that. It’s the wave. – I tend to side more with the ride than just the wave itself. – It’s a little bit more about
the intensity of the wave and how deep they get more so than just the wave itself being perfect. – If I see a wave that’s
up for wave of the winter and I don’t say, holy shit to
myself when I watch that ride, if I’m not completely baffled
then I don’t even consider it as a real contender. – Does this wave visually, from A to Z, the ride, everything,
do I look at it and go, there’s the wave of the winter? – And it’s like and ongoing heat from the start of November
to the end of February. Only the best of the
best guys at tube riding have won that event. – The last couple years it’s
been two of my best friends who have pushed the
envelope of surfing Pipe and Backdoor to a whole ‘nothing level. Nathan and Koa. – This one time I won Wave of the Winter. It was an awesome platform
people like me, or guys like me, that kinda just surf the most
deadliest wave in the world, which is Pipeline, and
somehow get a big prize at the end of the winter if you catch the Wave of the Winter. – Even though it is
open to the other waves, it seems like it all comes down to focus. It simply comes down to
Pipeline, what she produces. – [Man] It’s always been sort of the wave, or the mecca of this event. – There’s really no other waves that do it as good as Pipeline does it when it’s on. – There’s been a lot of people that have been really hurt out there and quite a few people that
have died surfing Pipeline. Sand is always changing,
the wind is always changing, the reef is really shallow. – Enter at your own risk,
don’t try this at home, you should be a trained professional. – Back injuries, neck injuries,
broken bones, dislocations. – It’s a really terrifying wave, actually. – [Man] Pipeline has to be
the most challenging lineup in the world for a really
high-level surfer to get a wave. – When you got every
hungry wolf in the lineup looking to pack the
biggest, deepest barrel– – And you’re bumpin’ into each other, your arms are hittin’ elbows
and you’re goin’ over leashes and you’re gettin’ stuck
on boards and stuff. – You know, you see some of the best-paid wave surfers in the world, you don’t see them out at Pipeline. You know why? ‘Cause Pipeline’s a
whole different animal. Only certain guys can master it. – The hometown hero, North Shore zero. Nobody gives a damn how you surf at your beach break at home. – It’s blood, sweat and tears, you know? You see the best guys get the best waves because they work for it. – You don’t choose the wave, the wave pretty much chooses you. It comes from thousands of miles away, passes through 60 guys
in a lineup at Pipeline, and somehow you end up on that wave that was chosen to be
the Wave of the Winter. – [Man] It’s like open mic night. Anybody can kinda step up and belt it out and not only do they get the reward of riding the wave of their life, but they also get a nice
little paycheck to boot. – It’s so documented and crazy and if you get one really
good wave out there, it can put you on the map. It all leads up to that one wave. If you’re in the right place
and you want it, it’s yours. – Now that first one of the
Wave of the Winter season was on November 25th. – I remember it kinda came outta nowhere and I remember Nathan Florence
got a bunch of mega ones. – [Man] Honestly, Nathan Florence’s at the beginning of this
season was pretty insane. It was like, full-on Houdini act. – That wave sort of stood
out and was way out in front, but then a lot of guys caught up. – [Man] Those guys were on it right away and really kind of got a couple
of really heavy contenders right off the bat. (rock music) – Then on the next day on the 26th we saw a massive swell hit Hawaii. It’s actually one of the
bigger, cleaner swells we’ve seen in a long time. Eli also got his bomb
out in the outer reef. – Eli Olson’s wave from Outer Log Cabins, which is an outer reef about
a mile away from Pipeline, was considered this year
as a real contender. That was like the biggest
wave that I’ve ever seen. (laughs) When I saw that cliff I was like, are you kidding me right now? Looks like a hundred-foot wave. – It was the most scary
thing I’ve ever done, but at the same time it was the most pure, beautiful session ever. And yeah, I’ll never forget that. – There was a really
good run within that week of 10 days or so in the
beginning of December. Healey got his second reef bomb. – [Man] It was like a Gerry
Lopez wave from the ’70s where it was this kinda mellow, rolling from in between first and second reef, super, super deep at the very edge of as big as you can possible be, and then the wave basically
funneled and barrelled all the way to the very end
of the reef on the other end. – [Man] Like, are you
kidding me right now? He’s gonna make this thing all the way across the whole reef. – [Man] It was ridden perfect
and the wave was beautiful. It was a big second reefer. – It was like everybody’s dream wave. – That was the wave that I would
really have wanted to have. – And I was like, wow, that
was something really special. And I was like, ah, might
have just won right there. – And then I think it was Cam Richards who got the other one. – Cam was just rapping out with me. He was like, oh yeah,
my dad made this board, he’s like, it’s a little
big, I’m not too sure. And I’m like, ah, you’ll
roll into a good one. – His wave had that oh shit factor right off the bat when I saw it. It was really big when it started off, it kinda rolled in, it
was kind of a mellow drop but it was a bigger wave, and then it stacked up on the reef and then he did this
highline and it breathed and he almost fell and
then he dropped down lower into that barrel and got blown out. Not out, but blown into the next section and then into the next section as well. – Oh, he kinda threaded
different lines and up and down and the wave went from
like 10 feet to two feet by the time he came out. – You don’t know what’s gonna
happen when you’re pumpin’ on a nine-foot board at the second reef. Like, who knows what that wave’s gonna do, it’s a lot of commitment. – [Man] The skillset
needed to kind of navigate a heavy barrel like that. – It was really cool,
he was riding a board that his dad had shaped and also that he’s from South Carolina. He’s from a place that the
waves never, ever get like that. – And I sent it to him and then he called me
about 30 minutes later just bawling his eyes out. – And I was like, damn, well
that’s Wave of the Winter, that’s gotta be. That barrel was so long, he
came out frickin’ a new guy. (laughs) – Didn’t surf Pipe again
that day, that’s for sure. – Man, this guy just got an insane one! I think it was better
than yours yesterday! It’s like, I know, thanks, Brian. (laughs) – They’re so different,
they’re so different, so hard to judge. Is it wave of the winter,
is ride of the winter, is it most technically
ridden wave of the winter? – Either or, you know? Blonde or brunette. It’s a matter of personal taste. And there could have been a
solid argument for either or of Cam’s wave versus Healey’s, for sure. (upbeat music) – I think with a breakthrough performer it’s pretty clear-cut. It’s one of those things where you see these younger guys coming up and all of a sudden they feel comfortable on the really heavy waves. And Barron is obviously
someone who’s at that level for the last couple years. And once again, he was
incredibly impressive. It’s been awhile since I’ve seen a teenager perform at
that level consistently. – [Shane] Another guy that
really stood out was Makana Pang. He had a ton of good waves. Over the last couple of
years I really noticed that he wants some of the
heaviest waves out there, like double up lefts, and I’m also seeing him as one of the only really consistent goofy foots that’s looking for those
heavy rides as well. – Barron has really
just been unbelievable. I mean, surfing so far above his age. – What’s he gonna be lookin’
like in like two years? ‘Cause people don’t
realize how young he is ’cause he’s a big kid. – The number of quality
submissions that he had and the amount of time
that he puts in out there and the level that he’s surfing at now– – [Man] His surfing is a
little bit Jamie O’Brien, a little bit Johnny Boy, little bit Kelly. – [Man] He’s consistently a stand-up. Day in and day out, whether
it’s competition, free-surf. – Barron’s a contender now. – If he doesn’t fuck up,
he’ll be one of the greats. – The kid’s ripping. He’s putting it on the
line and he’s charging. So for sure, Barron Mamiya
was head and shoulders above everyone else. He got my vote for sure. (crowd applauds) – Ladies and gentlemen,
keep giving it up right now for Barron, my man, Mamiya! (crowd cheers) So Barron, and you know what? He’s a defending breakthrough
performer from last year. So I don’t know how you bust
outta yourself like two times, but you’re busting through
a lot of stuff, brah, and this is a testament to that. One question about last year. How did you spend the money last year? – Um, I honestly don’t know. I think I put it in my bank account and then eventually it was just gone, so. (laughing) – We all know that story. – For me, the way that I look at it is who took off the latest
with the hairiest circumstances and just barely pulled it off. – Pretty much the surfer
that commits themselves. You gotta basically take off
upside down under the lip. – Who fell from the sky all the way down to the face and just caught their rail at
the bottom of the transition? – The skill level is so much higher now that they’re goin’ for everything and they’re makin’ a lot of ’em. Maybe most of ’em. – I chose Benji Brand. – Benji had a way that was like a, kind of a solid eight-foot double up. – I had a pretty big board for sitting on the inside
ledge, I had a 7’0″, and somehow my rail
just caught in the face and landed it like perfectly. – You could see his body free fall and gravity caught his
way and he set the rail just where he needed to
and scooted just under, so I know how difficult
that is as a goofy footer. There you go, there’s the heaviest drop. – Benji, looked like you lost
a little hair on that drop. I mean, that thing was hairy! Briley said it best, he’s like, lookin’ for the hairiest drop-in. I mean, at that moment
were you sure or unsure what was gonna happen to you? – I was actually, I could feel like I was
in the real perfect spot. You have to be just in the
right spot just to make it. If I was a little further in I probably woulda like, got
flown out with the lip, or– I was actually on a really big board so I think that helped me just get in, so. Yeah, that was really it. – Well now you’re $5,000 richer, what are you gonna do with that cash? I know your friends are like, right here! (laughs)
– Put it in my bank account. (laughs) Soon. (rock music) – We get to look at all the
potential waves each month, every single one that’s entered. You kinda get a general consensus of who was out there putting their time in and how many waves they were getting, the quality of the waves that
we were looking at as judges. – I think the thing that made
Benji stand out from the pack was just the caliber of his rides. – Awesome winter, you got a lot of waves, he got more submissions than
anyone else on quality waves. – When you see a guy
get four, five, or six really good waves
throughout the whole entire four months of the winter, the body of work is in the
waves that were ridden. – Oh yeah, Benji got a
good one this morning. Benji got a good one here,
Benji got a good one there. He is like pretty underground, he doesn’t really tell
anybody, surfs by himself. – He’s kinda like that guy that you just know when he paddles out he’s gonna get a really good one. He has a knack for finding ’em. – For me it’s really
about finding the windows where it’s the least crowded. – He had like three that could
have been real contenders for Wave of the Winter. They ticked every box. They had the size, they had the intensity, they had the technical aspect, they had the drop, they
had the giant spit, they had the deepness. Every single thing I’m
looking for as a judge, Benji had like three of those waves. The number of quality waves that he got, I mean gnarly, heavy drops, full commitment deals on
really, really nice waves. – He was committing himself and putting himself at the
right place at the right time. He got a lot of good
waves at Pipe this year. (audience cheering) – Right at the bottom of
the stairs, I told him, Benji, don’t go anywhere. He’s like, what, no way?
(cheering) Benji Brand, again! Did you have any goals
going into this winter? Like, oh, I wanna try to
win overall performance or you just put your
head down and charge out? – Not really. I think it was just my
obsession with Pipeline really. Actually the one I got
the heaviest drop on, that was one of my first
waves of the winter and I think that really got me hooked for the rest of the winter. I wasn’t in the Backdoor Shootout so I was waking up super
early those mornings and surfing those mornings
before everyone was out and actually like, none of the contestants are really out there so
I can sit in the spot and get the real good ones. I think that’s what it was. – Hey, kids, kids, getting
up early for work pays off. Getting to the office first pays off. Benji Brand, it’s gonna
pay off for you right now. Enjoy the moment, get some photos there. – Yeah but it seems like
this year and last year, the Backdoor Shootout, you know, it produced the best waves of the year. – [Man] Historically speaking,
there’s a lot of winters where the best swells of the winter comes within that date range. – If you wanna win the Wave of the Winter, enter the Backdoor Shootout
’cause they always score. – It plays into Wave of the
Winter every single year. It’s psycho how many entries
come out of that event. It’s all the boys and somehow we score very, very consistently. – They get this opportunity
to surf Pipeline with three other guys that otherwise they wouldn’t even have
access to these waves that are coming through. (upbeat music) – Team Freak Show or Team Japan, they were the highlight
of that event for me. And they were going out
and absolutely sending. Some of them, probably for
sure not gonna make it, they didn’t care. They were head down, going. Like insane. I was fired up on them the whole winter. And look at one of the craziest waves ever came out of that event again. – Very rarely, and it’s rare, there’ll be a second reef
wave that misses second reef and it jacks up and it’s
12-foot on the first reef. And it was Keito’s wave that he caught at the Backdoor Shootout. – [Man] Almost as big of a
first reef wave as you can get. – [Gerry] That lip hits you in the head, it’d take the head right
clean off its shoulders. – [Man] When you watch it,
you slow-mo the takeoff, he’s literally just, the
fins are completely out at one point and he’s almost sitting down over the board to get the tail down and get it to reconnect. – [Gerry] Pulling in that backdoor when the fins were barely in the water? That took some guts, man. – [Man] You have to ride the wave perfect to catch a 12-foot first
reef Pipeline wave. – I watched it live and then I
ran into the Quiksilver house and I was watching the replay like my head was about to explode. (laughs)
I was like, was that the best wave I’ve
ever seen ridden at Pipeline? Maybe. – [Pancho] When he comes out
of the barrel and it spits and you can just see he’s
just on another planet. He’s over the moon. – And the winner of this
year’s Ninth Annual 2018-2019 O’Neill Surfline Wave
of the Winter goes to… Keito Matsuoka! There are some ragers
going on out there, I know. And here comes Keito. (crowd cheering) All right! Hey! (crowd cheering) So, Keito-san, tell us how
this makes you feel right now. – This is wave of my lifetime. Yeah!
– The wave of your life! – Yeah. This is 100% my best wave of my life. This is my stuff, thank you. – And who would you like to thank to put you in this position
to get those waves? (man speaks foreign language) (speaks foreign language) – [Man] Yeah. – We need a proper
Japanese speaker up here. – Everybody! – He wants to thank everybody. – Everybody, everybody. (crowd cheers) – But most of all he wants
to thank his beautiful wife and his daughter ’cause he’s a family man and when he got that wave he was special. He told me ’cause (beep) daughter and his wife was there to witness it. Also he wants to thank
Uncle Eddie, Da Hui, Rocky, all the Hawaiians, everyone that gave this kid a chance. He wants to thank all the
local people, the community. He told me Uncle Eddie, Da Hui, you guys (beep) hands down run the best (beep) contest in the world. – I really, really appreciate everything. Thank you so much. (crowd cheers) – Keito Matsuoka! Surfline O’Neill Wave of the Winter! (hip hop music)
(cheering) (rooster crows) – When I was start surfing, I… (mumbles) Japanese, English mix. Maybe I can… (laughs) – You’re horrible at this. – Yeah, I just– – He’s been coming here
for how many, 16 years, and he still can’t do normal English. – ‘Cause I’m Japanese! – I think you know shit. Let’s torture this man. – That’s why I need him–
– I just fuck with wardrobe. (laughs)
– I need him. I need him.
– I just love fucking with people, I’m sorry.
– Try it later. – I love messing with people. So he’s from Sendai, so where he’s born, where he’s from, it’s
like the best beach break pretty much, it’s like portal. In Japan the waves get like portal. You know that huge airdrop he had? It’s just like the best beach
breaks, one of the best, and then that’s where the
tsunami and stuff hit too, yeah, his hometown. (speaks foreign language) – His hometown, it’s like, he wouldn’t get respect
if you don’t charge. – Yeah.
– Kinda like here. – So that’s why I love here. – [Interviewer] So when’d
you first come to Pipe? – When I was 12. So I’m 28 now, so. Almost 16 years. I was scared but anybody
ask me, oh, you scared? But I’m not scared. But I’m scared. (laughs) Still scary. The first time I came on the North Shore, I still think same, I wanna get the best wave,
one of the best Pipeline. So… (shouts) (laughs) 16 years, I got one. – He’s number one! – For the Wave of the Winter. – Number one!
– Number one! (speaks foreign language)
– Yay! – Yay! – I knew it! (piano music) (upbeat music) – Gerry Lopez, the dark side of the moon. (mumbles) – I don’t know. I try to handle the– – He’s saying the judges talk about him and he started tearing up and crying, dog! – Yes. – I’d be crying too if I got that wave and the judges look and
spoke highly of me, brah. – Yeah. Yeah, oh, I’m not crying. (laughs) – Moments that pay–
(rooster crows) The winner or the rider–
(rooster crows) This whole winter, basically.
(rooster crows) God, that guy is so loud. – But it’s kinda cold out here. (laughs) Thank you. Hate to be like a wimp
but it’s, it’s like– – Are you gonna put this in the thing? Do you wanna know all this shit? – It was– Sorry, I’m nervous. You know, the technique
over there is, oh, ah, no. Okay, don’t, don’t, don’t say that. Don’t use that. – Sorry, this one beer’s
got me feeling good. (laughs) Fudge, man! I love these things though. I love these things, these are so good. (laughs) What, what? Huh? What, huh, huh?! (laughs) No, so what do you want? What was the question? Sorry, I was like– – Seriously? (upbeat music) – He’s not– (rooster crows) Dude, we gotta like, we
gotta just chase it off. (man laughs) – I try to give him the
mic and he just can’t talk. Him and Rocky are talking, looks at me, I’m just like, brah, figure it out first. – Legends. – Legends, legends, dog. – Legend. – Very very legend. I want salad with that, McFlurry. (man speaks foreign language) (speaks foreign language) Hey, you a legend now. You a big, big legend here. (laughs) ♪ It’s a celebrate, come on ♪

68 thoughts on “Wave of the Winter Movie (2019)”

  1. Let's make Pipeline a type of National Park. You must make reservations if you are not a local. If you are a native, you make the rules. Start a discussion.

  2. Carnt you just make a vid with all waves in instead of all talking maybe a little burger in but mainly just pipe waves 🤙

  3. Sickest Surfers in The World North Shore Boyz Smoking Pipe. Epic ….Barron is next Shane Dorian for sure.

  4. Keito, your translator seems like a drunk and a bum. Don’t let him pull you down with him when he sinks.

  5. Great waves..but the 2018 movie was on a whole different level….too much talking here not enough epic footage. Still pretty sick

  6. I would never surf pipe! -not just because im a kook, but because of the crowd.
    Im not sitting on top of people like that and bumping into them while walls of death are approaching. -freakin nuts.

  7. I thought Cam Richards' wave had the advantage by a little bit. That thing was INSANE. Keito's had the better drop though, just an incredible wave so at this point it's just nitpicking. Keito almost won (I thought he should've won) for a similar backhand bomb a year or two ago

  8. When I saw cams wave I thought. "Damn that's got to be top 2 . If not winner.
    But the wave sort of did the work.

    When I saw Keitos it was the first time I've ever seen a wave and ride and said. "Oh shit, that's the wave of the winter. " Live. And honestly, maybe the best pipe wave of the last decade.

    Da hui boiii. Never a doubt

  9. ABSOLUTELY jus' retarded …. super commitment to the "Boy's" 🤦‍♂️ …. 2019, winter to remember !!!

  10. How did you spend your money last year

    I invested 10% in crypto, 10% in the stock market, 40% in my savings account, and the other 40% I used to buy shares in all my sponsors companies and 3 hookers!

    Not 🤣

  11. NOT TRUE…. The waves do get huge in NC and SC., but only during insane hurricane storm surges….. I was there!

  12. The one surf video I truly can't wait to see every year is "Wave of the winter". I hope they don't dilute it by adding different locations around the world. Would be cool to see a compilation video of best rides from top spots around the world, but not a documentary like this.

  13. Btw, Kalani Chapman's board was huge when he won. Amazing how big a board they can ride there

  14. Chubby Asian drunk guy is probably the most racist Asian I've ever seen! Obviously I'm poking fun at the PC liberals who think any joke about another race is racism. But he was funny as he did the "numba wwooonnnn" thing! keito seems like a really good dude and congrats man!

  15. Nice…….Met Pancho one year while he was on tour at the OP Pro in Huntington beach…..He knew my nextdoor neighbor Darren , on 10th and Walnut…..An amazing surfer and a very nice guy……

  16. Where was kalani Robb? After all he did surf at pipeline let alone few up there and was in a surfing documentary.

  17. Thanks For The Eye Candy and Congratulations to all the Winners The Hard Chargers and the Great Judges Mahalo and Aloha

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