It can be incredibly intimidating to
paddle out into a lineup where it is only guys. I’ve done it many times.
It kind of sucks that it is a male orientated sport. There would be so many people in
the world that I want them to know the same feeling as me. I’m like like you can
do it too, it doesn’t have to be just boys The surf in Australia, I’m surprised by
how few women are out there. I would often go out and be the only woman.
It might feel a bit uncomfortable because surfing can be hard but also because
it’s still quite male-dominated When I’m getting ready in the car park
at the beach getting my wetsuit on and waxing my board I feel like a lot of
people are thinking like oh I wonder if this is just another girl trying to surf.
We’ll go out into the surf and the men won’t let us catch any waves and they’ll think
we’re just we’re just out there for fun or just out there to socialize.
I know that they’re just thinking oh like another girl coming out like great.
I can still feel a bit of staring, like oh let’s see what she does
oh let’s see how good she is. They’re probably not watching you but you just
feel like they are and then you’re like I feel like I’m doing this for all women
everywhere I have to be amazing and then I mess up and then I’m like just
embarrassing my gender here Surfing everybody always thinks is this
soul surfer cool cruisey sport and actually it can be really aggressive. A
lot of the guys you know will shout at each other or they don’t talk at all
and it’s just complete silent, and you can kind of feel the energy of them
trying to you know be the fittest be the one who catches the best wave. I think
that can be really intimidating as a girl because physically it’s also quite
hard to compete for those spots because men are obviously stronger.
As soon as I catch a wave and I prove them wrong, I’m like, yep don’t mess with me If I have another girl out there I surf so much better.
I know when I’m in the surf and it’s all men around me if
another girl paddles out in the surf I kind of feel like this bond you know we
feel like we stick together and we have to you know stay close.
Surfing with other women it’s great because it’s really empowering you feel
so much less intimidated by the guys in the lineup and you’re there to cheer
each other on just knowing that I can like paddle up to them and have a laugh
and be like, see what I did there I really messed up. Just you know if anyone
falls off we all kind of laugh and cheer then if anyone gets an amazing
wave we’re all there rooting for them I just surf because I love it for me it’s
it’s the best thing that I have going for me in my life it’s it’s my favorite
thing to do and it’ll always be my favorite thing to do. I just love being
in the ocean the second that you catch a wave it just feels amazing and for me it
kind of feels like you’re flying. You could be stressed about work and once
you’re in surf you can’t think of anything else and it’s like a form of
meditation. That first duck dive going under a wave, get your hair wet and just
you just feel all the stress just leaving. You could have the best wave of
your life and no one’s seen it and it’s just, it’s just purely for yourself and
it just kind of gives you meaning even if the meaning is just to stand up on a
surfboard. If you had a good session that feeling after
is definitely one of the best feelings. I think everybody should try it just once
because the amount of people I know that it’s brought so much joy to their life, I
just think just give it a go